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Stormcast Eternal Noob Problem
So, before I even opened a bottle of paint I am already a Fail. I didn't spot that the three models were slightly different, eventually working out thats why the chest pieces didnt fit properly, because theyre supposed to go with the proper body piece duh. The shields hold OK but might need a spot of glue but fuck me if the heads do NOT just "push in", well, one of them did. One of them just kind of sits in the hole, and the third one I cannot get in AT ALL because the hole formed by the two pieces seems to be slightly deformed just enough to limit the diameter in one place. I checked the pictures and matched up the various spikey dickhead pieces to the correct bodies, I also learned that those spiky dickhead pieces
1) are fucking annoying to look for on the floor when you inevitably drop them, and more importantly
2) hurt like FUCKING ARSE when you jab your finger tip with them. Especially if you unluckily do it with "king nobhead", ie the model with the biggest spike
so my initial buzz of excitement, shiiiiiit, look at these models (certainly going to be wrecked by my shitty first painting attempts) has been somewhat dampened by wondering what I am supposed to do to fix this without wrecking the model. And I am going to hazard a guess that these models/kits represent the utter easy as piss end of "modelling".
So perhaps I have learned that for the time being I will be a rubbery Reaper Bone club member, and not quite ready for GW stuff. I have also now translated the "gosh that doesnt look too hard watching that girl slap a bit of paint on those models" to assuming that it will look like a 4 year old did it by the time I finish
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hand spun drill bit 1. Stormcast Eternal Spiky Dickhead 0.
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- Michael Barnes
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The thing with the heads- the push fit kits that have separate head pieces usually have a post beneath the neck. That sort of sandwiches between the chest and back pieces in these brackets. Usually, that post will only fit one way, so if you have to force or it doesn't fit flush then you don't have it lined up.
And yes, sometimes "push fit" actually means "a minimum of glue required"
As far as the painfulness...don't get into Tyranids or Chaos.
The GW painting tutorials with Emma (I think she doesn't do them anymore) were more geared toward beginners whereas the ones with Lord God Masterpainter Duncan are more for the advanced painter. But that set probably has a picture guide- that should get you going just fine. Where you are going to screw up- I guarantee- is in putting the paint on too thick. A little water on the brush will do, don't worry about "thinning" or anything like that. Stormcast are really pretty easy to do:
1) prime black- I believe that set has Imperial Black primer. Which is not great, but it's fine for learning.
2) Paint the WHOLE THING Retributor Armor. Do not try to paint "in the lines" or anything like that. Go for nice, even coverage. The first pass you may still see black primer. Let it dry (like 5 minutes) and go back over it if you have to.
3) Use the Reikland Fleshshade wash on the WHOLE THING. Liberal amount. You will screw this up the first time. You will have gloppy puddles of it. You have to sort of mop it around and clear it off the big, flat areas.
4) Go back into Retributor Armor and paint all of those big, flat areas again. Don't paint into the recesses.
5) Shield- Kantor Blue. Whatever white they give you for the insignia. If it's Ceramite White, it NEEDS water. That is a really thick paint. To hit the detail without messing up the blue, hold the brush so that you are dragging the LENGTH of the brush over the raised part. DO NOT stab at it with the point! Touch it lightly, make sure you have enough paint or it will be patchy.
6) Pauldrons- Kantor Blue. What you want to do is to paint in the middle and then PUSH the paint into the edges. Again, jabbing is bad technique.
7) Tabard- Paint it all Kantor Blue.
8) Silver metals (like the chainmail in the tabard)- Leadbelcher.
9) Wash 8 with Nuln Oil.
10) Any other details- leathers (Rhinox Hide), hair (Khorne Red), parchment (Zandri Dust), etc.
11) Wash 11 with Nuln Oil (or Reikland, if you want a redder brown hue)
That is pretty much it, to be honest. That is all a beginner, tabletop quality job there. To go further, you can do like you did in step 4 and repaint with the base colors to bring them up and make the recess shadows more pronounced. Simple drybrushing works well for this. You can also use lighter shades on the edges/raised areas where they would catch light- this is the layering you hear about. GW style brings pretty much everything up two shades. For tabletop models, one is really plenty.
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I've kind of accepted the third one looks a bit messed up already, I got the head in and added a glue spot but then realised the snap fit chest piece doesnt sit tight anymore so there is a noticeable "join" across both shoulder blades. Maybe once painted and sealed (I didnt see a sealer in this kit) it wont look too bad.
Also, theres no instructions for putting the figures together in the box, which I thought was weird. I mean believe when I say I pushed and rotated that head every way possible but the actual hole when I looked down on it, was sort of squashed on one side, like one half of the snap fit pieces wasnt forming a semi circle but maybe I just missed trying a weird angle that was supposed to be there with the neck.
I'll give it a go anyway, I wonder if I could just dot and wipe a spot of glue along the crack to seal it and then paint over it (or use some of my kids squishy putty)
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some thoughts
1) dont use a stupid small light palette as you will just chase it round the table getting paint, use a big ass heavy plate
2) those pots are very small and the lid is tight. Also the pots are not labelled!
3) I dont know if its due to being a starter set but there is VERY little paint in the pot, like I could touch the bottom of the pot and not get paint all the way up the brush. When I shook it I did not really feel or hear anything moving. The paint hasnt dried out but I hope this is not what a normal "pot" of paint contains -bought online, these kits dont come in shrink wrap
4) I immediately jabbed the brush into the plastic funnely thing in the lid to get paint and blobbed loads of paint into the ferrel
5) some of the areas are stupidly hard to get to, I dont know why I didnt paint and THEN assemble that would have made more sense
6) I have some decent lights but they are not angled well, so I need to fix that, its annoying having you self shadow while trying to spin the model round to get in the crannies
7) I didnt stick the model to a bottle top but the bases are big enough to use as their own holder I think
8) maybe due to not putting enough paint on palette? but it seemed to dry very quickly. Its a small brush so you cannot load a lot onto the palette, and I even dipped the brush into water as they said to make it flow better but it was still not as liquidy as I expected somehow
9) its patchy, I hope thats a good sign of having not used too much/too thick paint so I will go over it again later. I do not really know how long you should wait for stuff to "dry".
10) I guess spray primer is a lot less fannying about but its nice to not have to think about fumes.
11) Instead I am only thinking about some of the recesses and stuff behind the shield (one model has the shield pressed close to the leg so in between there is well hard to get at). I see that the models are bigger than the D&DAs ones and have some better clearer areas to paint, but at the same time, I dont even know if I can SEE clearly enough at my age to focus on the details I'm supposed to be painting
12) Even just slapping black primer on, it is NOT as easy as it appears when you watch video tutorials
13) despite all this, its ALREADY the best miniature paint job I've ever done, having only experience from about 35 years ago being blobbing on enamel paint onto a metal miniature with a brush more suited to be a toothbrush than a paintbrush.
I will definitely be looking at Valleja or similar in future, something with a squeezy (larger) bottle system.
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On with the gold!
Honestly, it looks a lot better to me in person, now I look at the photos it looks a bit crappy, but I haven't gone back to do a 2nd coat of gold, and fix the black on areas I messed up (I painted the tabard on one of them).
I can see on the photos loads of bits I missed haha, I guess I will get some better lighting in here and check the minis under a lens next time, but since I planned a second touch up coat and fixing of black its OK
It felt like you can try to be have too little paint on the brush sometimes trying to avoid overglooping it. The head/eyes had a tendency to gloop but the rest of it went on pretty well, surprised the back of the shield the paint didnt stick so well but maybe I had watered it down a bit much there. Again, so fucking little paint in those pots which are already tiny. This one seemed to be sealed when I opened it (like the plastic lid had some plasticy bits holding it shut) so I assume this is indeed how those pots are.
Gold is an awesome colour and I can see why they chose it in a starter set. I am pretty sure that just putting the blue on, and washing it will already look amazing.
Already feel like you start to see little tricks to holding the mini a certain way, holding the brush a certain way and letting the paint find the right place, but obviously these will be nothing more than clumsy first attempts, but now I am definitely going to go out and get Silver Tower for the young uns and get that painted up.
I can see myself spending a lot more time just painting miniatures, which is just mindblowing to me, as I've always just freaked out at games relying on painting minis.
(with the issue of amount of paint, have now decided that the large D6D minis like Ashardalon will be getting a colour spray primer, and a wash. I wil not be hand painting loads onto those monsters)
Definitely have NOT got to grips with those pots or brushes, I mean getting paint out of the pot and onto a palette it is very hard not to get paint on the ferrule and even up onto the brush wood itself. I'll have to persevere with that.
so far though the biggest single problem is getting the paint onto the palette and mixed round with the right consistency and having enough there on the palette to dip into Somehow, I didnt really consider that this would be a thing to worry about. I wonder if the eye dropper bottles will be better in this regard to get a good blob out with some drops of water.
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Krylon makes a Mettallic series that works well and lays super smooth. The brass color would be the one you might want to use.
Best of luck on the rest of them.
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- GorillaGrody
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I will touch them up a bit before washing maybe but to be honest, now it feels a bit like I'm "fiddling" beyond my expertise/technique and I am guessing the wash will hide anything I'm not happy with at this stage.
I wish I'd gotten another colour for the scroll bits (some kind of off white) as I don't think they look great in blue (and didn't look right in gold either). I also wish I'd tried getting a metallic silver for the hammer head instead of just the gold. I do love the gold though, I reckon a lot of my first minis painted will feature gold heavily
Its mind boggling to me that Emma of GW so casually got in between the lightning bolts on the shield with that brush shown, I ended up switching to a smaller brush and even then it wasnt so easy. I also noted how some of the finer details had in fact been slightly hidden by too thick gold (mainly the details on the shoulder pads) so I just went over it all blue then tried to touch over the top with the gold again.
THe single biggest "problem" I'm having is getting a good amount of paint at the right consistency to the palette. Those brushes arent great for glooping blobs out of those pots (even from the lid) and then dabbing brush in water just to help. I dont know if its a citadel paint thing but I cannot wait to try an eye dropper paint to get a proper blob out without mangling the brush. Both brushes I routinely got paint all the way up and even onto the ferrule. That whole step of "just take a few dabs of paint, then touch your brush in the water and get a good consistency" takes about 0.5 seconds on the demo videos but for me was the biggest problem - the times when I managed to get the balance right and the right amount on the brush I noted the difference in ease of painting rather than too much/glooping or too litte/dry, then you're somewhat fighting the brush round the model
well, I've never painted a mini before so I am WELL happy right now, will try the washes tonight.
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- SuperflyPete
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I third the spray can gold. Anything you CAN spray, you should. Time is never on our side as humans, and spray gold gets a cleaner, more realistic finish provided your spraying skills are good. Also, FUCK any pop-together pieces that have giant death halos of pain on their heads. That looks like the equivalent of stepping on a Lego in bare feet.
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But probably I will have to bite the bullet and get some sprays. Already thinking that Ashardalon will be getting a spray red, a bit of off white on the chest and basically wash and done. I see that GW do sprays in black, red, white, and gold that I can easily find here in the FLGS
also, this guy
hahaha, what the fuck.
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- GorillaGrody
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Tron wrote: I hear you on the spray but avoiding having to go out in the freezing cold and try to spray some toxic shit is winning so far.
But probably I will have to bite the bullet and get some sprays. Already thinking that Ashardalon will be getting a spray red, a bit of off white on the chest and basically wash and done. I see that GW do sprays in black, red, white, and gold that I can easily find here in the FLGS
Be aware that:
Can of GW Retributor Armor Spraypaint: $28.
Can of Krylon Gold Spraypaint: $7.
I'm sure the GW is good, but it can't be that good.
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I might just try and touch some bits up tonight and leave the washes for tomorrow. I hate that when you take a photo and post it you suddenly see everything and what a mess youve made!
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- SuperflyPete
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