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What Minis Are You Painting?
- Michael Barnes
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- Mountebank
- HYPOCRITE
Dryad Bark is vey slightly grayer than Rhinox Hide. But they are really close.
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The photo looks slightly less red than I think it looks in real life, but otherwise it is probably a good guide. I uploaded a full-size image so if you open it in a separate tab, you can zoom way in to look at the contrasts.
The base/primer colors everything is painted over are: GW Imperial Primer, Vallejo Surface Primer White, GW Khorne Red, and GW Mephiston Red. These have been painted in two groups of four with the left group glazed with GW Bloodletter.
I'm not a fan of most of the glazed colors with only the bottom five base paints still appearing "brown" enough to me, which is not going to help when I highlight them up.
Nothing too conclusive for me, so I will still need to do some test models.
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- Michael Barnes
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- Mountebank
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I've been trying to rip through Burning of Prospero, I have most of it done now. I've sort of hit a burnout point with the Thousand Sons though, I did all the Termies and 16 of the SMs (thank Tzeentch for Army Painter Dragon Red Primer) and I've just got Azrak and four more SMs (Sergeants and Vexillae). Then it's just the Custodes (easy, pretty much just like Stormcast) and the Sisters. And Geigor, who may be a little more difficult.
I just brush primed Thorin's company from that Hobbit set...went with the brush because the figures are quite a bit smaller than AOS/40k and I didn't want to risk the small details. They are really nice figures, once again far better than anything from the board game companies. The Bilbo and Gandalf minis are really lovely and each of the dwarves is characterful.
Doing the brush priming, I thought "why the hell don't I always do this" instead of futzing around with toxic-ass spray paint. The coverage is better, you can apply it more consistently and thinly, and it really doesn't take that much longer. And it's not full of environment-destroying chemicals and poisonous gases. So I ordered a big bottle of Vallejo black primer
I've got Blood Bowl put together, I really kind of don't like the Orcs. They also sort of broke apart after they were glued and dried, the parts I guess fit so tightly that they opened some seams. The humans look fine, looking forward to painting them and the Skaven.
Side note- I sold the Skaven dice on eBay for $35. I mean come on.
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Doing the brush priming, I thought "why the hell don't I always do this" instead of futzing around with toxic-ass spray paint. The coverage is better, you can apply it more consistently and thinly, and it really doesn't take that much longer. And it's not full of environment-destroying chemicals and poisonous gases. So I ordered a big bottle of Vallejo black primer
It's just one more step to an airbrush and the transformation is complete. Bwahahaha!
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- Space Ghost
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- D10
- fastkmeans
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All my experience is with a gravity-feed so it might need more solvent in a siphon feed to flow properly.
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I find I need an advil after spray, and find airbrushing too laborious (all that cleaning and taking care), but I've only tried that once with a borrowed (and admittedly very cheap) airbrush.
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One benefit of painting on the primer that is affecting me right now, I can't airbrush when it is -15 degrees outside. My garage is hovering in the low teens, which is way too cold for painting.
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Even if you want one for fine detail work, you will probably still need something like the Badger 105 for the bulk coverage work of priming.
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- metalface13
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