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Bugs: Recent Topics Paging, Uploading Images & Preview (11 Dec 2020)

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× Painting Minis, Print & Play and Other Creative Type Stuff.

What Minis Are You Painting?

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17 Nov 2017 15:45 - 17 Nov 2017 15:46 #257803 by Michael Barnes
Glowing eyes are way easier than you might think. What you want to do there is to paint the inside of the eye, the recessed part, with a white. Then, you use one of the GW glaze paints in it- you sort of drop it in after the white is dry. You'll want to do this two or three times with the glaze so it builds up. It's OK if it's sloppy around the edges or if it runs out of the recess- you want this to happen because THAT is what creates the illusion of a glow. This is the perfect method to do Space Marine lenses, for example. Bloodletter for red, Waywatcher Green for a really cool lime green, Guilliman Blue for a dark-ish blue, Lamenters Yellow...these are good paints to have on hand for these things.

That Otyugh, I think, is heavily washed. I just painted a Daemon Prince (I had NO intention to do so when I did, I just kind of sat down and did it) and I did a similar effect on those tentacles but with Thousand Sons Blue and Celestra Gray heavily washed with Druchii Violet. See how the purple and green have a translucent quality? I think what they did there was to put down something like Rakarth Flesh and then use the washes to build up to color. I did this on my Daemon Prince, and it looks pretty good. It's also pretty easy to blend color with washes, since they are so translucent. So you can sort of build up a transition between colors. Then, when you have it how you like it, you can drybrush something like Flayed One Flesh over BOTH colors to blend them together visual. The browns and reds are likely just washes in those colors. The brown splotches are probably just a a medium brown sponged on. The tongue is totally washed- I am about 100% sure that it was a light color and then washed like crazy with purple.

The thing that is nice about wash painting is that it is of course WAY thinner than acrylic paint. So it is easier to bring out detail, and it sort of has some built-in shading so that raised portions are lighter than the recesses. The downside is that it takes some babysitting, and it is easy to mess up if you splodge it on too much. But it is totally viable, and really quite quick to do. I think if I do any D&D minis, I will definitely make use of painting with washes on them.

The yellow/brown parts on the Drake are a combination of layering and drybrushing. On the spines, that is simply drawing a line on the ridge. The rest looks like standard drybrushing. It's a smart color choice though, that adds detail and definition.

I had sort of an epiphany last night. I wanted to get back to doing some Primaris marines since I have a ton of them that are unpainted. I followed the GW method of painting the first 10, and it took forever. Edge highlighting those guys is a pain in the ass. So I decided to massively simplify them. I primed Macragge Blue, washed with Nuln Oil, then drybrushed Calgar Blue fairly heavily, and then Chronus Blue lightly. Armor done! I decided to fly in the face of GW rules and I didn't use base paints for anything, really. I used layer paints one shade up from base. I went for good, solid coats on everything, and I did gray instead of black for the black parts. Then I washed the pouches and belts (which I did in Skrag Brown) with Agrax and the metals and grays with Nuln. Ulthuan gray for the skull masks, Retributor Armor for the gold trim, and my above eye glazing technique. I REALLY wanted to avoid having to edge highlight the Bolt Rifles (which I always screw up) so I washed the black parts of them with more Nuln. In about 20 minutes, I had a virtually complete Primaris Reiver at what I think is a high tabletop standard. So I am doing ALL my Space Marines with this method. Sorry Duncan Rhodes!
Last edit: 17 Nov 2017 15:46 by Michael Barnes.
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17 Nov 2017 18:59 #257809 by Da Bid Dabid
Let's see pics of that black, Barnes. My 40k project has stalled but trying a new black recipe is a good way to get back to it.

I'm gonna take a bunch of photos to motivate me hitting the hobby desk again.

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17 Nov 2017 20:21 #257810 by ChristopherMD
Just want to point out you are all welcome to start your own threads to show off your minis. If I ever get around to painting you can bet I will.

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17 Nov 2017 23:19 #257819 by GorillaGrody
Yeah, I'd love to see how those marines turned out. I'm desperate to finish a batch without fiddling around with edging.

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18 Nov 2017 09:20 - 18 Nov 2017 09:22 #257830 by Michael Barnes
I should finish them tonight, I’ll put up a pic. Those little bastards have SO MANY EDGES...and if you don’t hit them perfectly, it looks messy. So I think the overbrushing/drybrushing works just fine. But my painting is nowhere near as clean as yours Grody!

My “black recipe” is really heavily shaded dark gray. But I think it “reads as black” without having to sit there and edge highlight all those little recesses on a Bolter.

Here’s that Daemon Prince-

www.flickr.com/photos/54116966@N03/shares/k6rC83

A little sloppy because I’m lazy and impatient, but I think it’s high tabletop quality...and it took me maybe 90 minutes not counting wash/glaze drying?
Last edit: 18 Nov 2017 09:22 by Michael Barnes.
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18 Nov 2017 10:21 #257840 by Space Ghost
I like the purple transitions on the claws and wings. Well done!

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18 Nov 2017 12:06 #257849 by __
Replied by __ on topic What Minis Are You Painting?
yeah thats great, I hope the 90 minutes didnt include the posh basing!

also looking forward to seeing the marines

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18 Nov 2017 15:14 #257855 by Michael Barnes
Ha! More hobo than posh! That took like 5 minutes. Wood glue the base after Steel Legion Drab in the rim and then it goes into this tray of mixed basing stuff- some green flock, black sand, assorted rocks. Shake off excess. Stick an Army Painter shrub or two on it. Call it done.

I don’t really care to do elaborate bases. These are playing pieces, not showpieces.

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18 Nov 2017 15:36 - 18 Nov 2017 15:38 #257856 by Gary Sax
As a side note, I feel like the other chaos factions are trying to communicate an emotion or motif. It's clear and pretty concrete for them. But Tzeentch I just can't figure out. It gets worse as time goes on. Currently, their modelling strategy for the god of change is... birds and Egyptian?

Like it's a hard thing, I don't have any suggestions, but...
Last edit: 18 Nov 2017 15:38 by Gary Sax.

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18 Nov 2017 16:11 - 18 Nov 2017 16:12 #257857 by Michael Barnes
Change, fate, mutation, illusion, alteration, thaumaturgy, deception...sort of trickster-y.
Last edit: 18 Nov 2017 16:12 by Michael Barnes.

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19 Nov 2017 12:42 - 19 Nov 2017 12:50 #257883 by Michael Barnes
Ok, SM pics.

www.flickr.com/photos/54116966@N03/shares/Zi7wi4

Probably need to do a little more touch up work, but I think these turned out OK for comparatively minimal effort. I did go one drybrush highligh round on everything, which I didn’t plan on doing, but it brightened everything up and they needed that.
Last edit: 19 Nov 2017 12:50 by Michael Barnes.
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19 Nov 2017 12:48 #257884 by hotseatgames
Those skull masks look cool.

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19 Nov 2017 12:52 #257887 by Gary Sax
I really like those, I feel like you've leaned into how the Space Marines border on creepy and body horror in some respects if you stop and think about it.
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19 Nov 2017 22:14 #257893 by GorillaGrody

Michael Barnes wrote: Ok, SM pics.

www.flickr.com/photos/54116966@N03/shares/Zi7wi4

Probably need to do a little more touch up work, but I think these turned out OK for comparatively minimal effort. I did go one drybrush highligh round on everything, which I didn’t plan on doing, but it brightened everything up and they needed that.


I'm absolutely trying this next time. 50 percent of the pleasure I get from painting is discovering shortcuts that work (and 75 per cent of the pain is trying shortcuts that fail).

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19 Nov 2017 22:44 #257895 by Michael Barnes
The only thing- and you can see this in the picture- priming Blue isn’t as forgiving as a black or gray. I can see 50 places where I missed base coverage. The basic armor recipe is:

1) Prime Macragge Blue
2) Wash Nuln Oil (Or Drakenhof Nightshade)
3) Overbrush Macragge Blue
4) Drybrush Calgar Blue (use a large, flat brush)
5) LIGHT drybrush Chronus Blue
6) Use Macragge Blue to go over the really patchy looking spots on the flat parts of the armor.

You could modify this for any color, really. The key thing is prime the main color and wash first.

Then just do all your colors a shade lighter than you are “supposed” to and wash it all with Nuln Oil or Agrax depending if you want clean or dirty shades- just totally ignore the GW method. Save that for your characters/showpiece models. You can do one more shade up as a drybrush highlight.

NO edge highlighting!
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